Lawns & Irrigation

About 25 percent of the state’s population lives in North Texas. That’s more than 6 million water users and a lot of thirsty lawns.

Did you know that watering our lawns accounts for about half of all the water we use at home? In fact, experts tell us most lawns get twice as much water as they really need. And we’re doing it with highly treated drinking water. It doesn’t make much sense. Yet it happens every day – to the tune of millions of gallons.

You probably don’t even have to leave your neighborhood to see the signs of our bad watering habits: water gushing down the curb, sprinkler geysers erupting from yards, or watering during a downpour. It all adds up to a waste. We have to be smarter in the ways we irrigate.

Set Your Lawn Up for Success

In this episode we learn what lawns need to do well, what type of grass works best, how to improve the soil and making sure you’re mowing the right way at the right time of year.

Keep these things in mind and share the wisdom with your friends:

  • Twice a week or less. If you’re watering more than two days a week, you’re watering too much.
  • Don’t water between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. Up to 30 percent of the water we spray on lawns during the heat of the day is lost to evaporation.
  • Cycle and soak to avoid runoff. Irrigate in shorter bursts to give water a chance to soak in, and allow 30 minutes or more between cycles.
  • Tune up your irrigation systems. Fix leaks or damaged sprinkler heads and make sure they’re aimed at the landscape, not the street or sidewalk.
  • Give your sprinkler a rest on windy days. There are certain things to avoid doing on windy days. Watering your lawn is one of them.
  • Rain and freeze sensors are water savers. They trigger automatic systems to shut off during downpours or when temperatures dip near freezing. And they could reduce your outdoor use by 5–10 percent.
  • Smart controllers know when to say when. They are like irrigation clocks that automatically adjust run times in response to weather conditions.
  • Water by the drop. Use drip irrigation for trees, shrubs, and flowerbeds. Drip systems put water in the root zone – that’s right where the plants need it. And adapters make it easy to convert from spray to drip.
  • Replace that thirsty turf. Grass is great for play spaces, but do we really need so much? Replace those little-used areas of your lawn with other types of landscaping or water stingy plants.

Busting Lawn Care Myths

More turf is damaged by overwatering than underwatering. During most summers (June to September), your lawn will need supplemental watering in addition to rainfall to maintain color and density. In North Texas, the watering needs of turf dramatically decrease from October through March. Keep an eye on your lawn, and water only when it starts to show signs of stress, which include a bluish-gray to brown color of grass and/or if footprints remain for an extended period after walking across the lawn. With the exception of a few hot weeks in the summer, watering one day per week is usually sufficient.

Lawns need to be mowed in such a way that no more than one-third of the leaf blade is removed in any one mowing. According to the one-third rule, a lawn mowed at 3 inches will need to be mowed about every seven days. A lawn mowed at 2 inches will need to be mowed every five days. Mowing your lawn at a higher cut will result in a healthier lawn that doesn’t need to be mowed as often.

The optimum mowing height for most lawns is 2 to 4 inches. Turfgrass mowed at the right height will be thicker and need fewer inputs. Mowing above these heights tends to create a less dense turf with coarser leaf blades and a potentially scraggly appearance. Mowing below this height will create weaker turf that will require more inputs like fertilizer, irrigation, and pesticides.

Before Bermuda grass begins to grow in the spring, it is possible to mow the turf slightly shorter than normal to remove dead leaf blades and other debris. This practice reduces shading of emerging plants and helps the soil warm up faster in the spring. The result is a lawn that greens up quicker. The risk in “scalping” your lawn is in cutting off the emerging grass if this practice occurs once the lawn starts to green up. And by allowing sunlight to reach the soil’s surface, you could end up creating better growing conditions for weeds.

Mowing your lawn too low is never a good thing. It results in weaker turf that may require more fertilizer, irrigation, and herbicides to control weeds. In fact, shorter lawns will usually result in more weeds. In addition, mowing too short increases the amount of time and energy required to maintain your lawn. Golf course superintendents select their mowing heights based on turf species, environment, golfer expectations, etc. They have the training necessary to maintain the quality of shorter turfgrass.

In the 1960s, it was commonly believed grass clippings were a major component of thatch, and removing clippings would dramatically slow thatch development. In 1967, researchers at the University of Rhode Island completed and published a detailed study of thatch, showing it was primarily composed of lignin-containing tissues (rhizomes, stolons, and stems) as well as living turfgrass roots. They concluded that leaves and grass clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup. Their findings have since been confirmed by numerous other studies.

Heavy layers of tree leaves shading the grass can smother and kill grass. However, research shows that moderate levels of tree leaves can be mulched without any detrimental effects on the soil or turf and usually leads to improvements in soil structure. The easiest way to dispose of leaves is to simply mow them into the turf. Regular mowing in the fall will chop the leaves up into small pieces and allow them to filter into the turf. Plus, mulching leaves with a mower is easier than raking, blowing, and/or vacuuming them. Removing leaves may still be necessary if copious amounts of leaves accumulate between mowings. If that’s the case, you might try composting them and adding them back into your lawn as a topdressing.

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Busting the Most Common Lawn Myths and Misconceptions Adapted from University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture and Research

Aaron Patton, Assistant Professor – Turfgrass Specialist